Sonya Philip's Shirt No. 1 Hack and More

 I recently purchased some gorgeous linen fabrics from the Doggie Bag sale on Fabric-Store.com. 

It's an ongoing, ever-changing source, and you never know what you might find there. 1/2 yard remnants in interesting colors will make nice scarves; 1 yard cuts for a top; 1 1/2 to 2 yard cuts in textured linens for throws or lightweight blankets. I'm not even half way through my order, and I've already made the two coverlets/throws and one top. 

The throws were easy-peasy. I kept the selvedge edges as-is. Here is a lovely reversible linen in a gorgeous indigo/cobalt blue on one side and natural linen on the other.

The sewn edge is a simple hem ~ iron 1/4", fold over and iron again, then stitch. This is heavy weight, and perfect for so many things, like cozying up in a chair outside on a chilly evening, or cuddled into while watching TV, or placing at the end of a bed. 

The second throw is textured linen/cotton, medium weight in bleached white, ISO10Bleached. The cotton makes it extra soft. When you receive this fabric, it's flat and easy to sew. Once it's washed and dried it magically changes to this fluffy, pillowy texture. Again, I left the selvedges as-is. I cut the raw edges perfectly straight, zig-zag stitched about 1/2" away from the edge, and fringed it to match the selvage edge. I'll put this at the bottom of my bed just in case I need an extra layer as the weather begins to cool. 

For the top I modified 100 Acts of Sewing Shirt No. 1 pattern by Sonya Philip and used just one yard of Fabric-Store IL019 softened linen in Elephant. The color is absolute perfection for me, a gorgeous deep slate gray/blue. It'll go really well with my new pandemic silver hair! 

I decided to have a go at creating a portrait/funnel/cowl type neck on this pattern. There was a lot of guesstimating involved as I've never made nor do I have a top like this. Since I was working with linen with no ease or stretch, I knew the neck had to be wider than my head or I'd never get it on. I measured my head and figured out what the smallest opening should be, added seam allowance, and an extra inch to be on the safe side. I thought 7-8" tall would be ample. I made it 9" for seam allowance, figuring I could easily cut it down if I needed to. The tricky part was just where to start the curve on the shoulder up to the top of the funnel. I approximated at about the halfway point, and used a French curve ruler to make a nice transition curve from top to bottom. You can see my chicken scratch notes on the neck pattern.

I used French seams for the sides; and a simple hem for the bottom, arms, and neck. I liked the shirt on, but the neck opening at the shoulders seemed a tad too large, so I tacked the top edge of the neck at the seam onto the shoulder seam. I also made a small tack in the front top of the neck onto the front of the shirt. Now it sits just about right, laying with a soft, blossomy drape. Next time I will begin the neck about 1" further up the shoulder, making the bottom portion of the neck a little narrower. 

There is ample room in this top for a long-sleeved under layer when the weather starts getting chilly. It will be a great transition piece, and goes with just about everything I own. Next, I'll get to fringing up those scarves; and I still need to figure out just what to do with that houndstoothe-like fabric. Any suggestions are most welcomed!

Wire Shelving Makover

Trouble with space issues has sent the organizational part of my brain into overdrive. We do plan on some remodeling/additions eventually, so I don't want to spend too much money on temporary solutions, but being a Virgo I cannot abide living in chaotic mess. An awkward corner of stacked boxes and plastic storage bins was driving me nuts. I brought in a shelving unit that had been languishing in the garage filled with deflated soccer balls, old lacrosse sticks, and miscellaneous stuff that hasn't been used in years. Score! I love it when I can shop my own home, especially during a pandemic. Even more fortuitous is that this shelving was the perfect size to fit tidily into this corner, and had casters to roll easily out of the way if we wanted to fully access a seldom used door.

Now I appreciate the minimalist look, and wire shelving in the home can be done quite successfully, but it just wasn't cutting it in my art/sunroom. The wood trim and terracotta tiled floor begged for something warm and not the cold steel look. Plus I was still looking at plastic bins and clutter. I had previously ordered a large quantity of natural linen from Fabrics-store.com (subscribe for their most awesome sales). I'm contemplating recovering an old sofa, and I knew there were lots of projects around the house that I could use this linen for......like covering metal shelving.

Lowe's had a solid pine board the perfect size to fit on top of the shelves. I ordered that and a curtain rod online, and utilized their convenient, contact-less curbside pick up. 

I put screws on the bottom of the board; then wired the board to the shelving to help keep it in place. 

I then screwed the curtain rod to the front of the board. The hardware didn't fit exactly, so I'll be sure to gently move the curtains when I'm accessing the boxes. 

I sewed the front curtains from two rectangular pieces of cloth, using the selvedge as the hem for the bottom. I then used a third piece of linen and attached it with fabric tacks for a stationary covering on the side to completely enclose the shelves.

It's also nice to have an extra work station or flat space to put things. 

All in all I'm very happy with the outcome of this project, corralling the clutter and creating more useful space, while not spending too much time and money on it. 

Beeswax Wraps

We're all trying to do our part to re-use, recycle, and not create so much waste. A few years ago I purchased a set of wax wraps by Meli Wraps. They're a nifty way to cover leftovers without using plastic wrap. They're not leak-proof or completely air tight, but in most cases they work very well and are environmentally friendly. Using the warmth of your hands, as you press the wrap onto your container, it will cling and mold to its shape. I've tried a couple different brands and found Meli Wraps far superior to the others. All the wax wraps I've used leave a slight waxy residue on my container that is easily washed off with soap and hot water. To wash the wraps, use cool water and soap and rub with your hands. Do not put them in the dishwasher, microwave, or use hot water. They are not recommended to use with raw meat. They should last about a year. 

I like to tinker and make. Since I enjoy encaustic wax painting, I had all the tools and ingredients on hand to make wax wraps myself. There are quite a few blog posts and Youtube videos explaining different methods of how to make wax wraps that are worth checking out. Some people used a foil lined pan in an oven. Some people used a double boiler to melt their wax. Some people did not use an iron, which might be a good method to try if you do not have a dedicated wax iron. There are also a variety of recipes for the wax mixture. My friend was ahead of the game and had already experimented with ratios and ingredients, so I was happy to use what worked best for her instead of reinventing the wheel. 

Wax recipe:

100 g beeswax

68 g damar resin

2T jojoba oil

She first tried pine resin, but found it was very pungent smelling and did not stick as well as the damar. I did not have jojoba oil and substituted coconut oil. The results seem very similar.

Tools I used:

electric griddle

oven thermometer

glass jar or metal container

foil

rags

meat tenderizer or hammer

clothes pins

small clothes line (I just used string)

stirring stick

paint brush (natural bristles so they won't melt)

wax iron (an iron without holes)

apron

thinner woven cotton fabric

Use pre-washed and ironed, thin woven cotton fabric for your wraps. If the fabric is too thick it will not be pliable and will be too cumbersome to meld onto your bowl or cup. I made an assortment of sizes: 4x4, 5x5, 8x10, 10x12. Use pinking shears to cut your pieces. The wax will seal the edges so they shouldn't fray. 

I have an electric griddle that I covered with foil. The wax/resin gets extremely sticky, so the foil is essential for cleanup. To clean my hands when I was done I put a little oil and rubbed it around then some soap. I use an oven thermometer on my griddle to maintain a temperature of about 200 degrees. You don't want it much hotter or you'll get smoke which means toxic fumes. I was in a cold garage, so my temperature while melting the mixture sometimes went up to 220.

Put the wax and oil in a metal container or glass jar, place it on the hot foil-lined griddle, and let that melt. If your resin is not in powdered form, crush it. Put the resin bag inside some rags and a paper bag and gently pound it with a hammer or the smooth side of a meat tenderizer.

You'll want to lightly add a tiny (about 1/4 teaspoon) sprinkling (not one big blob) of damar powder, then completely mix that into the melted wax/oil mixture. If the resin is in chunks it will be too difficult to dissolve. Don't rush it; keep adding a tiny bit of damar sprinkled on top, and stir, stir, stir to mix it in. It took me about 40 minutes and my friend almost an hour to completely mix the resin into the wax with no remaining lumps or gelatinous clumps. 

Once your wax/resin mixture is completely melted and incorporated, put a piece of fabric onto the heated foil to heat the fabric. Paint a thin layer of hot wax onto the fabric. I used wooden clothes pins to maneuver and flip the fabric. Paint a thin layer of wax onto the other side. You want the fabric completely saturated but not dripping.

I then placed a clean piece of fabric on top of the waxy fabric and lightly ironed to soak up excess wax. My first go around I ironed too much of the wax off and the fabric didn't quite stick enough so I had to go back and apply an additional layer of wax. It works just fine with the additional wax. I would suggest making one or two, then trying them out to make sure you've got the correct amount of wax. 

After you iron, use your clothes pins to peel the two pieces of fabric apart. Place the cleaner fabric back onto the foil and drape the saturated fabric over the clothesline (ie piece of string). The finished wrap will cool quickly, in less than a minute. While it's cooling, go back to your griddle and add your thin layer of wax to the fabric, flip over, and add a thin layer of wax. Top with another clean piece of fabric, iron, etc. and repeat. 

You can save any leftover wax in case you need to re-apply more wax later on to keep your wraps well primed and extend their longevity. I made about 25 pieces of assorted sizes with this recipe. 

I love the smell of the beeswax! These wraps smell lightly of honey, especially if they're sitting in sunshine or a warm room. I put together an assortment of sizes, wrapped in parchment paper, and popped them into my family's gift bags. 

I hope you enjoy this fun project.

Build a Bench

Benches can be quite versatile: Put one in front of the wood stove for cozy comfort; barricade a staircase to corral the dogs downstairs; slide one over to the dinner table to accommodate extra friends; keep one at the entryway so family can easily remove their shoes; place one near the windows for star gazing at night. Right now as I type my new bench is blocking the kitchen while we're training the dogs it's a no-go zone.

 

Staying home during Covid has given me time to research and complete projects that have been percolating over the years. A few Christmases ago I was gifted a bundle of the most beautiful fabric from a dear friend. It was woven at a women's cooperative in Antigua where she purchased it on her travels through Guatemala. My friend knew I would love it and find the perfect project to showcase it. 

We had a sturdy, solid wood board left over from another project that was just begging to be made into a bench. With a little research I found that most benches measure anywhere from 12-24" deep and 24-48" and longer. My board was 16" wide, and my husband cut it to 42" for me. I ordered sturdy wrought iron legs online, and wood screws since it did not come with any. 

There are many very good upholstering videos on youtube with all the details and tips from seasoned professionals in the upholstering business. After watching a few I got the gist of how it is done. I opted for a good quality 3" foam and quilt batting for my padding. I used spray adhesive, a staple gun, cordless drill, hammer, and that's about it. 

For this style of bench I preferred insetting the legs a little instead of placing them flush with the edge. I asked for opinions on Instagram about a couple details, and received some great feedback and ideas. Thank you, friends! My scraps of leather were too thin on their own. Luckily I had an old suede skirt that I bought at a thrift shop for a Halloween costume eons ago.  I cut wide strips of suede to use as the base and placed the thin leather strips on top. Just the look I was after, and I was able to use what I had on hand and avoid any shopping.

It feels good to finish a project that I've been thinking about for years, and finally utilize that gorgeous fabric so I can see and admire it every day. 

Encaustic Wax, Flower Printing, and Plaster Play

I've finally carved out a niche in my outside studio to play around with encaustic wax!! (Happy dance here.) It's summertime, so I can throw the doors and windows open to keep the studio well ventilated. I just need to make sure no critters get caught inside! (On acreage in the middle of the forest, this is a real challenge.)

Also on my list of things to try out is creating prints by pounding flowers into either fabric or paper. And in keeping with my non-linear, crazy mind these days, I'll throw in a smattering of plaster to mix things up even more.  The options are growing exponentially as I write.

I had a damaged wooden board stained with indigo India ink, cast off from a failed project. This would be perfect to start my foray back into the world of encaustic wax. Blue = sky, easy beginning; and I love flowers, so there you go. 

Here are some detailed shots:

That was soooo much fun! But that's just the beginning. 

I have a large bare spot on one of the walls in our cobalt blue tiled bathroom. Unfortunately, the first piece is a horizontal panel, and I needed a perpendicular panel to fill the void. So on to the next experimental art adventure I go.

We are in the middle of a pandemic, thus I am trying to use things I have on hand. Since I didn't have a correct size wooden panel, I ripped leftover drop cloth into the size I wanted, and added a layer of plaster of Paris to the front (let it dry) and then the back of the cloth. I had seen this done by Jeanne Oliver for smaller journal pages. Perhaps this isn't the best thing for a larger panel like I'm making as it may crack or break fairly easily, but I forged on ahead knowing that it's just for me, and on the wall, and I'm pretty careful.  

What shall I put on this panel? I have been vying to try hammered flower cloth. What, you ask, is hammered flower cloth? Take flowers and hammer them into cloth. I used a very thin, woven, cotton muslin type cloth. I went around my yard and gathered a variety of flowers to try.

I layered a piece of paper underneath, added the thin cloth, arranged the flowers on the cloth, covered the flowers with parchment paper, and used a rubber mallet to hammer the flowers into the cloth. The parchment paper allowed me to faintly see where the flowers and colors were transferring onto the fabric, helping me create a more cohesive design. I went in after the first pass and added more flowers and greenery where it was needed. The bottom layer of paper had a faint ghost print from the color that seeped out from the fabric. You could use this paper for a mixed media piece, or attach it into your journal, or whatever you like. 

Here is the cloth panel. 

I won't wash this. If you wanted to use this technique on a washable item, you would need to treat the fabric before and after doing the flower pounding. Since I knew this was for the wall and wouldn't be washed, I used untreated fabric. 

To attach this fabric onto the plaster substrate I used encaustic wax. I laid the fabric onto the plaster panel and added a layer of encaustic wax on top of the flower print. The wax soaked into the thin cloth and down into the plaster. I am hoping the encaustic wax will not only act as a binder, but also help to seal in the color of the flowers and keep it from fading. 

Here's a portion of the cloth before the encaustic wax was applied.

And after the wax was applied.

 

And here's the same area after I added some darker encaustic wax accents. 

Sweet peas on fabric.

Sweet peas after clear and some white encaustic wax. 

Here are close ups of areas with the darker encaustic wax and some indigo colored wax details added. I wanted a little of that indigo/cobalt color of the bathroom tiles in the piece. 

I left the edges rough, but felt it was a little too rustic. I had leather straps that I added to the piece by stitching a loop and hanging them onto the copper tubing I used to hang the piece by. 

The leather covers the rough edges on the longer sides and makes the piece look cleaner. I used a piece of wire as a hanger, but wanted to obscure it a bit so I added a few pussy willow branches to the top. 

I like how the plain plaster is still visible at the top and bottom of the piece. 

I learned a lot by just playing around with materials I had on hand, trying to make do. I'm happy to have a piece of art to hang in the bare spot of the bathroom. I hope you give the flower printing a try. It's very easy. There are all sorts of tutorials on Youtube showing different methods. I even saw that some people used rocks to pound the plant materials into the fabric. 

Happy summer, everyone!